| Frameless
Windows - by
rikk |
Well, you’ve decided that you want a top or side-panel
window to show off all of your PC’s expensive components, but you
have decided that the ‘bulky’ look of black window edging really
doesn’t appeal to you …. so what are your options?
How about the 'frameless' look? It might seem hard at first glance, but
it is simple really – all it takes is a little more time and precision
in cutting the window hole, and a heap of time with sandpaper getting the
straights straight and the curves smooth!
This project window is going into a Lian Li PC-60 brushed aluminium
case, and by its nature this adds more problems:
· The case is too expensive to trash and replace
(the financial pressure is guaranteed to make the hands shake during
the first few
cuts!).
· The softer the metal, the easier the cutting – but the
more devastating effects of the ‘slip factor’ when the
cutting tool decides to take an unexpected detour of its own .
· There isn’t the option of simply painting
over your mistakes. L
The first step taken is to stop the jigsaw, Dremel or whatever your
favourite cutting tool is, from leaving scratches all over the metal
that is going to remain. |
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Aluminium case owners especially will love this tip – cover
the panel with masking tape! Leave the tape on the case until you have
finished
the mod, and then peel it off to leave an unblemished finish!
It is also an excellent surface for drawing your template onto the case.
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Step two is to drill out a hole in each corner of the
proposed window – this
makes it easy to turn a jigsaw @ 90*, and means that the rest of the cutting
is really just 4 straight lines.
Don’t drill right in the corner
of the turn – leave yourself a little room for mistake and clean
it up afterwards with a Dremel or a curved file. Use a washer, or small
coin to get the corner ‘arc’ even and consistent. |
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One word of advice – again, especially to aluminium case owners – is “Unsupported
metal + jigsaw = vibration” and “aluminium + vibration = ‘ripples’ in
the edges of the cut”
Support your cover as close to the cutting point as you possibly can.
Here comes trick # 2.
12” (300mm) plastic seweage pipe is the best ‘work mate’ you
can have. And it is cheap! Check the pic for detail.
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Once all of the metal has been removed it is time to clean
up the corners with a Dremel, or file, and remove all of the burs. Use ‘wet and
dry’ sand-paper as it lasts longer and cuts better.
Again, support your cover as well as possible, especially as more than
60% of the original metal that gave it strength is now just an off-cut
on the floor!
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Its now time to start the arduous task of sanding the
cuts smooth … 360
/ 600 / 800 / 1200 grit ‘wet and dry’ sandpaper is a good progression.
Always use a sanding block to help keep the cuts straight.
Waves are easy to ‘install’ if you just use sand-paper wrapped
around your fingers!
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Well, after a few hours of sanding you should get there – with
a perfectly shaped hole for the glass / perspex to be fitted to from the ‘inside’.
How do you attach the glass?
My method of choice is ‘Hi-Stik” double-sided tape for plexi,
or 5-minute epoxy if you are using glass.
Remember to have about an inch / 25mm overlap around the window so that
there is enough room for the two parts to get a decent bond to each other.
Notice that the masking tape has left a perfectly clean finish?
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I have left the protective coating on the plexi as there
are a few more mods yet to go, and I don’t want to risk any scratches!
Windows with rubber edging are practical and easy, however for a really
clean and uncluttered look, the extra effort is worthwhile.
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The other major positive is that you can chose a window
size and shape that suits your individual case, or use unusual shapes
that moulding just
won’t bend around – like the DVD porthole in the top of this
Lian case. |
